NO! Perma-Columns are poured in a controlled environment using the latest pre-casting and curing technology. Additives are incorporated to enhance strength, density, corrosion and freeze-thaw resistance, yielding a High-Density concrete that has a compressive strength of more than 10,000 psi - normal concrete is often only 3,000 psi! Concrete is the most proven foundation material know to mankind...with centuries of success.

There are four strands of 1/2” or 5/8” of weld-grade rebar (size depends on the model), which are robotically welded to the steel “U” bracket.  Rebar runs all the way to the bottom of each pre-cast concrete Perma-Column.

Hammer-drill a 3/16” diameter hole through the splashboard and into the concrete, and use a HDG split-drive anchor to secure the skirtboard (a.k.a. “splashboard” or “bottom girt).

PERMA-COLUMNS are slightly wider in the dimension that resists lateral loads, thus decreasing embedment requirements. They are designed to have a base depth equal to or less than a standard wood column. Typically they are embedded four feet in the ground or less, but two Column Extenders are available to allow deeper footings: 12” (for 5’ hole depth) and 24” (for 6’ hole depth).

It is recommended that the same type and size of footing be used as for a wood support column, to ensure proper load-bearing requirements are achieved.

A steel pipe is welded to the base of the four vertical reinforcing rods, creating a sleeve in the base of the PERMA-COLUMN. Just bolt the uplift anchor or column extender on through the hole.

Just connect a 12” or 24” column extender (stilt) to the base of the PERMA-COLUMN. Pour concrete around the extender to create a combination footing and uplift anchor.

Upgrade cost from a treated wood post foundation is typically only $10.60 per linear foot of exterior perimeter wall.  PERMA-COLUMNS provide the quickest and least expensive option compared to all other concrete foundation options, and they are the most convenient … there is no waiting on a concrete sub-contractor to complete his work before the builder moves in! Also, unlike a monolithic slab, the structure won’t “float” and the steel brackets and wood columns are elevated 12” to 18” above the floor.

Similar to a treated wood column. Attach a transit to the boom on your auger or tape a 1x” strip of wood to the bottom of the transit that extends below grade to dig holes to the same depth. The post or the outside plies on top of a wood laminated column should stick up higher than the truss - cut them off later. The pocket in a laminated column should be lower than your bottom chord height so you can insert a block the right length between plies to make the bottom of the truss the right height; or notch or bolt a block on a solid-sawn post at bottom chord height. Use pre-cast or composite footings with uplift anchors; or place a sack of dry concrete in the bottom of the hole, put the Perma-Column in with rebar where the uplift anchor goes and level it, then add another concrete sack and dirt on top of that.  ASABE 486 post embedment standard approves in-situ hydration of concrete footings, so the ground humidity may set the concrete or you can water the holes after installing girts if the ground is dry.